Note: To see the camera that was modified and a couple early test pics, click here.
Many film cameras use a film size no longer available. Here is an easy way to convert them for use with today's 120 roll film.
To begin, measure your camera's film gate from top to bottom. A caliper as in the picture is important for precise measurement. Cut strips of aluminum flashing to compensate for the smaller size of 120 film. You'll want the strips to support the film. A couple millimeters of support on each side is plenty. Using a developed roll of 120 film as a guide makes this step easy.
Edit: Aluminum flashing comes in different grades or thicknesses. I used the thinnest, economy grade I could find. Its much easier to cut and once you get it glued down its more than rigid enough for the task.
Clamp and cut the flashing with a box cutter. Oil helps here:
Many film cameras use a film size no longer available. Here is an easy way to convert them for use with today's 120 roll film.
To begin, measure your camera's film gate from top to bottom. A caliper as in the picture is important for precise measurement. Cut strips of aluminum flashing to compensate for the smaller size of 120 film. You'll want the strips to support the film. A couple millimeters of support on each side is plenty. Using a developed roll of 120 film as a guide makes this step easy.
Edit: Aluminum flashing comes in different grades or thicknesses. I used the thinnest, economy grade I could find. Its much easier to cut and once you get it glued down its more than rigid enough for the task.
Clamp and cut the flashing with a box cutter. Oil helps here:
Sand the edges and both sides of the aluminum strips. Spray paint flat black.
Double check fit. You can see the strips don't extend past the rollers. The flashing is also less deep than the rollers so shouldn't scratch the film. Use a liquid-y adhesive like LockTite super glue. A thicker glue could create lumps and distort the strips.
Double check fit then glue down. Done with the film gate adaption.
For the film spool end cap adapters I first modeled them in SketchUp - http://www.sketchup.com . A caliper would be very helpful here too, but I used a millimeter ruler.
From SketchUp you can export an STL file. First you have to install the SketchUp STL Extension - http://extensions.sketchup.com/en/content/sketchup-stl - . A simple two step process. Then open the STL file in MakerWare Software - http://www.makerbot.com/makerware/ - and export it either to a file (which you can bring to your 3D printer) or to the printer itself if your connected.
All the software mentioned is free and cross platform. I'll provide links in a day or three.
Below is a MakerBot 2 (About $2200) starting the printing process. 3D printers are showing up everywhere - check with your library, college or university. Online printing is available too.
Close up of four film spool extensions being 3D printed. It took about 20 minutes for each extension.
The finished product. Using SketchUp seems to produce the faceted curved surfaces you see below. Other software, i.e. SolidWorks won't, but they tend to be expensive.
These extensions are for 122 film (the post card sized film) and 130 film - common in many Kodak Folding Cameras.
Done!
