Download film spool adaptors for 120 film. STL Files for 3D Printing of 120 film adaptors

Here are STL and MakerBot files for 120 Film Spool adapters. The STL files can be opened with SketchUp (if it has the STL extension, which is free and from Google). The .X3G file formats are for the MakerBot 3D Printer. You can open these files in MakerWare, also free.

For the Zeiss Ikon. Don't know the film size, maybe 118? The spools are 89.3mm tall. The spool end is 31.6mm in diameter.

Zeiss Ikon: Download STL 3D Printer File for 120 Film Spool Endcaps

The next two files are MakerBot ".thing" file formats. They can be sent to a MakerBot 3D printer to create the film spool adapters for 122 film and 130 film.

NOTE: These are for Ilford film. Kodak spools are different. I'll make Kodak adapters if there is interest. I'll also put up the generic STL files as soon as I find them.

122 Film Spool Adapter for Ilford

130 Film Spool Adapter for Ilford

Let me know of any issues! Post comments below if they work or if you have suggestions.

Joe

First Photos from 120 film conversion camera

Note: To see how this camera was modified to accept 120 film, click here.

These shots were taken with a No. 2C Kodak Autographic Jr. Converted for use with 120 roll film (See previous blog entry for a tutorial).

I managed to get some photos from this newly converted camera. Since I don't have an enlarger (yet) or a scanner (yet) I slapped the newly developed and still wet negatives onto a window and took some pics of them with my digital camera. Then inverted the colors and adjusted tones in Picasa.

I assume the image quality will be better when I get a contact print done and scanned, so I'll update the site with an example soon.

First an abandoned house down the road. An overcast day, the negative was soft even with about 30% increase in development time. I have a lot to learn about film development...

Next an oak forest from a nearby park. Again, very soft lighting. I had to aggressively bump up the contrast in software. Film was Ilford Pro100, developer was Ilfosol 3. 70F for 6 minutes.

Because of the size of the camera's film gate I was only able to fit 6 complete images on a roll of 120 film. This old Kodak was designed to take 130 film, which was 2⅞" × 4⅞". Thats a lot of megapixels! A challenge is figuring out how far to advance the film, both after it is loaded and between shots. I followed the advice I found on line and advanced the film 8 1/2 revolutions of the winding key after loading, then 2 1/2 revolutions of the key after each shot. It only "kinda" worked, so I'll have to figure out a better way.

Next: How to make hard plastic copies of the 3D printed film spool adapters.

Convert or Adapt an Old Film Camera to use 120 Roll Film

Note: To see the camera that was modified and a couple early test pics, click here.

Many film cameras use a film size no longer available. Here is an easy way to convert them for use with today's 120 roll film.

To begin, measure your camera's film gate from top to bottom. A caliper as in the picture is important for precise measurement. Cut strips of aluminum flashing to compensate for the smaller size of 120 film. You'll want the strips to support the film. A couple millimeters of support on each side is plenty. Using a developed roll of 120 film as a guide makes this step easy.

Edit: Aluminum flashing comes in different grades or thicknesses. I used the thinnest, economy grade I could find. Its much easier to cut and once you get it glued down its more than rigid enough for the task.

Clamp and cut the flashing with a box cutter. Oil helps here:

Sand the edges and both sides of the aluminum strips. Spray paint flat black.

Double check fit. You can see the strips don't extend past the rollers. The flashing is also less deep than the rollers so shouldn't scratch the film. Use a liquid-y adhesive like LockTite super glue. A thicker glue could create lumps and distort the strips.

Double check fit then glue down.  Done with the film gate adaption.

For the film spool end cap adapters I first modeled them in SketchUp - http://www.sketchup.com . A caliper would be very helpful here too, but I used a millimeter ruler. 

From SketchUp you can export an STL file. First you have to install the SketchUp STL Extension - http://extensions.sketchup.com/en/content/sketchup-stl - . A simple two step process. Then open the STL file in MakerWare Software - http://www.makerbot.com/makerware/ - and export it either to a file (which you can bring to your 3D printer) or to the printer itself if your connected.

All the software mentioned is free and cross platform. I'll provide links in a day or three.

Below is a MakerBot 2 (About $2200) starting the printing process. 3D printers are showing up everywhere - check with your library, college or university. Online printing is available too.

Close up of four film spool extensions being 3D printed. It took about 20 minutes for each extension.

The finished product. Using SketchUp seems to produce the faceted curved surfaces you see below. Other software, i.e. SolidWorks won't, but they tend to be expensive.

These extensions are for 122 film (the post card sized film) and 130 film - common in many Kodak Folding Cameras. 

Done!

As this is a work in progress, comments are welcome.